You might not know it to look at me now, but beneath this cool, collected exterior beats the heart of a surfer chick! Born and raised in southern California I spent a lot of time playing in the Pacific, and while I never even got up on a board properly, I would body surf like I knew what I was doing. Which I didn’t. At all. More times than not my encounter with the next, big, wave ended with my face in the sand, saltwater in my eyes, and kelp in my hair.
There’s an art to surfing – by board or body. I think the secret is in the timing. You have to exercise patience. If you try to catch the wave too soon you’ll miss it completely and find yourself upright and watching it go on ahead of you. If you wait too long you are likely to get schmushed –a technical term involving grit and a lot of swallowed seawater. As patient as I am, you understand I spend a lot of time head first on the shore with sand in my mouth!
A good wave is worth the wait. If the wave is right it’s not going to upend you gasping for breath and sprawled on the beach. A good wave will lift you up, up, up, and carry you on its back all the way in. The ride, when it works, is really indescribable – it’s what prompts inept swimmers like myself to endure many a mishap just for the thrill of a good run in.
The secret is you have to let a lot of waves go by. You have to be watchful, vigilant, and ready. You never can tell when the next wave will be THE WAVE.
Yesterday, Braveheart Hassena posted the poem “Youth” by Samuel Ullman. In it he wrote of having our aerials up, to catch the waves of optimism.
I am reminded that there is an ebb and flow and rhythm to life that assures us, if we are patient and EXPECTANT– if we keep our aerials up -- we will catch that next great wave and we are in for one more wonderful ride. C’mon ladies, keep your eyes on the shore and get ready to paddle like mad!
I'd love to hear about the wave you are ready to catch!